“Landslide Road”

The golf course area south of town has been developed extensively in the past few years, and encroachment upon the Rio Pueblo rim, while slowed by the recession, is continuing. The area discussed here is where the old road washed out many years ago, past the UNM campus and golf course. The road continues paved but with dips until it ends at an abutment and gravel and dirt pull offs. Some of the past and present uses of this area are evidenced by the shotgun shell casings, blown out appliances, wrecked cars run over the cliff and strewn glass. Folks still like to shoot out there, so if you hear rounds going off come back another day.

The trail, if you can call it that, starts at the abutment and heads down along the old landslide road paralleling the Rio Pueblo valley. This river runs down into the Rio Grande near the Taos Junction Bridge, which can be reached from the other side via the Pilar entrance road to the Orilla Verde recreation area. Nothing here is maintained and you should not assume that the ground beneath your feet has been reinforced in any way. Occasional sinkholes appear and in some areas the trail gets fairly narrow because of rock falls. You can take this walk around a few bends and get great views of the valley walls and river below, as well as fascinating studies of rock face and plants on the eastern side close to your path.

This description may sound rather drab and depressing, but this walk is actually a hidden gem that yields wonderful interplay of rock, plants and vistas. Morning hours keep the rock face in shadows, thus low contrast light, while afternoon light can be very high contrast with deep shadows.

On the way back driving out you may want to venture into some of the subdivision roads. There are few houses there (as of this writing) and of course respect all property lines and posted notices, but if you drive carefully down some of the smaller tracks (four wheel recommended, and go out there during or after a rain at your own risk) you can get great overviews of the Rio Pueblo valley. In fact, when storm clouds gather, this is one of the most exciting areas to watch the growing storms over the Sangres.

Photo and text copyright George Schaub. The rock face along the cliffs of this “trail” have an amazing interplay of plants and rock forms.

Wild & Scenic Rivers

About 28.5 north of Taos, the Wild and Scenic Rivers area outside Cerro, NM is infrequently visited, but is at the heart of Northern New Mexico landscapes. Some have compared the area to Africa, others to parts of Afghanistan, but whatever the association it is a great place to hike, photograph and work. To get there take 64 straight north out of Taos, then at the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge split (64 going east) stay straight on 522. Take that straight through Questa. A few miles along that route you’ll see a small brown sign that says Wild & Scenic Rivers indicating a left turn. That’s towards Cerro and is called Rt 378. Take that through Cerro and you’ll enter a loop road that takes you all around this amazing area.

Stop at the Visitor Center for trail maps and conditions and to say hello, as they don’t seem to get many visitors there. The circular drive takes you past various camp and hike trailhead pull offs, favorites being La Junta (where the Rio Grande and Red River meet), Big Arsenic and Little Arsenic. There is a flat trail along the rim for those who don’t want to hike down into the Gorge. A manageable, though sometimes tough pull is the Big Arsenic down, little Arsenic up hike, and La Junta trail is a bit more difficult. Either one is well worth your time. If you do the Little/Big hike you can walk along the rim back to your car.

Morning walks in the hotter months are highly recommended, especially because the sun hits the trail back up from the Gorge in the afternoon on the Little/Big Arsenic hike and all day on LaJunta. But any stress of the hike is soon forgotten because of the amazing vistas and surprisingly lush areas along the river.

The area is essentially a plateau through which the deep gorge of the Rio Grande and the Red River wander. It is filled with gnarled trees, blooming cactus in the spring and incredible views, especially when the clouds race over the Gorge from one side of the rim to the next. Rock formations are essentially basalt cuts and volcanic anomalies, around which all sorts of grasses and sage grow.

Things to know: There a day fee, but it’s a pittance, and if you buy a yearly pass, also really inexpensive, you can use it for this area as well as Orilla Verde (see description elsewhere in this guide.) If you hike down carry plenty of water. Lock your car and stash your valuables well out of sight, or better yet carry them or just don’t take them along.
We have never had any vehicle molestation here in the 25 years we have come here, but folks tell us others have, so better to be safe than sorry.

Photo copyright George Schaub. Along the rim trail, La Junta campground trail head.

The High Road: Trampas

The so-called High Road from Taos to Santa Fe is a pleasant drive through varied terrain and mountains that brings you through numerous small towns. This route is described in every tourist brochure so a full layout of the route isn’t provided here. Check: http://www.newmexico.org/explore/scenic_byways/highroad.php.

Trampas is a farming area with many interesting side roads, but the main attraction here is the Trampas Church and the small plaza in front of it. Two towers topped with metal crosses are joined by a porch and a portico with a very old door. It’s an almost fort-like structure that houses some of the most interesting devotional art in the area. The interior ceiling is carved in intricate patterns that are filled with symbolism and mysterious figures and forms. Unfortunately the church is rarely open except for weddings, funerals and services for the community, a time when respect is more important than pictures, so do not intrude on these events. If you are lucky enough to come by when the church is open (such as during the High Road Art Tour (http://highroadnewmexico.com/) do stop in and you will be rewarded, and don’t forget to leave a few bucks in the donations and offerings basket on the way out.

Photo Copyright George Schaub. interior Trampas Church

West Rim Trails

Over the past few years the trails along the west rim, the western side of the Rio Grande Gorge, have been improved and extended, making this area great for hiking, photography, mountain biking, painting etc. The best route to these trails is north out of Taos towards the Gorge Bridge. The first set of trails is right off the rest stop/parking area just west of the bridge. The payoff here on this mostly flat trail is great views of the bridge and the gorge. You can hike this trail all the way along the river, but most folks get their fill by the time they reach the bench along the way.

The second set of recommended trails, known as Petaca Point, can be accessed by heading south on the West Rim Rd. and then making a left at the tee in the road (the right turn heads towards Carson). Go about 500 yards and there are pulloffs to the left and right before you descend into the gorge road. You can also access this trail via the Pilar route through the gorge.

This trail is also moderate with a few hills, and goes through some unremarkable sage and shrub for a while, but then gets really interesting. As you come over a small hill you will notice a cleared area and perhaps some small track and trails off to the left. If you follow those through some rocky areas you will eventually hit the edge of the rim. There are many larger boulders and rock piles, crags and nooks along here and if you look and explore you will find some petroglyphs, most notably the "kissing fish" rock.

There are many other trails and cleared areas along the West Rim. Unfortunately, with the paving of the West Rim Rd the feeling is that more building will take place, so check it out while you can.

Seasons: Summer can get brutal hot so limit hikes on these trails to cool days or early in the morning. Sunset here is gorgeous and it cools down quickly after the sun dips below the horizon. Winter may have snow on parts of the trail.

Caveats: Aside from the heat of the summer, bugs may be out and feasting, particularly at sunset and dawn. Always lock valuables out of sight in your car; better yet carry all wallets etc. with you on the hikes. Be aware of snakes and various nasties in rocky areas.

In all, these areas are not over-used and are the source of many great views, particularly when clouds roll around in the sky.

Photo: Copyright George Schaub. The gorge from the West Rim Trail near the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge rest area

Ghost Ranch

While a bit out of the Taos circle, Ghost Ranch is close enough for a day trip and well worth your while. You can even arrange to stay overnight or longer in the somewhat Spartan quarters on the grounds, although summers tend to be booked up with workshops and retreats. We find that if you call on a Tuesday afternoon there may be some cancellations for the following weekend, but it’s usually catch as catch can in the high season. (www.ghostranch.org for information, lodging, etc. or call 877-804-4678.)

This 21,000 acre tract is most familiar to those who know and love the paintings of Georgia O’Keeffe. Walk around and you’ll recognize them in the landscape, with Pedernal always over your shoulder to the southwest.

Getting to Ghost Ranch has been made much easier with the paving of the West Rim Rd. north of town, which dropped almost 15-30 minutes from the trip. You follow the road straight out of town and then head west to the Gorge Bridge, then about a quarter mile after the rest area make a left and head south, then head west through Carson, then south towards Ojo Caliente, then west through El Rito and down to Abiquiu, then north to the ranch area, passing through the amazing heights where you can look down into the Chama River meandering through a dazzling valley. You know you’re close when the riot of red rock appears. When passing through Abiquiu have a breakfast burrito at Bodes.

You enter the ranch by making a right at the gate where the cattle skull appears, then follow the signs to the ranch house/visitor center. If you need to make a phone call the only place a signal seems to get out is alongside the cabin on the right on the way in.

You sign in at the front desk and tell them you are hiking and that should be that. If you carry in serious gear you might be asked for a camera use fee, or something like that, and if you are painting and setting up an easel you might have to pay a use fee as well. It’s not much and if it helps them run the place it’s fine. Get a trail map.

(Trail maps online: www.ghostranch.org/mueseums--activities/hiking-trails-at-ghost-tanch-abuqui.html).

Every trail in Ghost Ranch is magnificent. The first section of the Box Canyon Trail, for example, has sheer cliffs and a pond that throws amazing reflections. Kitchen Mesa can be a bit of a haul in spots but has amazing views. Chimneyy Rock Trail, said to be the most hiked, is about 3 miles long and the classic for long-range views. The Piedra Lumbre trail is flat all the way, but brings you past O’Keeffe scenes unmatched in other parts of the area.

Caveats: From late May (or earlier) through September it can get quite hot and buggy. If you keep moving you probably will be fine but stand and contemplate for too long or sit down to draw and you will serve a feast to the local gnats etc. Bring bug spray.

The site may close for special workshops or retreats. Check before heading over just to be sure.

Do not walk off the trail, as this area is very fragile, but don’t fret, as there are many, many images to be made without straying off the path, which is diverse, long and varied.

Photo: Red rock formation alongside road from Abiquiu to entrance of Ghost Ranch. When you see this formation you are about 5 minutes from the entrance on the right. Copyright George Schaub 2010 All Rights Reserved

Taos Pueblo

Said to be the oldest continuously inhabited structures in the US, Taos Pueblo is a definite site for photographers and artists, with some caveats. Located just north of the town of Taos, the land on which the two adobe “houses” sit is grand and sweeping, and seeing the amazing pueblos against the Sangre de Cristo mountains for the first time is quite a stirring sight. The structures themselves are composed of numerous “apartments” within two larger building, with connecting kivas and smaller adobe houses. There is also a very beautiful small chapel as you enter the grounds, as well as the ruins of a larger church, which was the last stand of the Taos rebellion in 1848, a scared and memorial site that should not be entered. The lovely San Geronimo chapel is a graceful, classic Northern New Mexico church; no photos are allowed in the interior.

There are set rules for working in and around the plaza, the large space through which the Rio Pueblo flows and the center of the circle of buildings that compose the old pueblo grounds. The rules are posted as you come in, and violation will result in a fairly quick reprimand at the least, and potential seizure of gear at the worst. Always ask permission prior to photographing someone or a group, and don’t think you can sneak shots with a telephoto. It’s just not worth it. This is especially true during ceremonies to which the public is invited. Simply leave your gear in the car locked up out of sight and enjoy the day.

There is a camera fee that is paid upon entrance, as well as various fees for sketching, painting etc. Generally the fee is for one camera body and not each lens. If you bring a tripod, be prepared to be asked for a “commercial” fee. There are large signs posted that will let you know what is off limits, but overall you should be able to get some great shots and find some wonderful scenes as you wander the grounds. The sketching fee is quite a bit higher than the photo fee, so perhaps take a small point and shoot and use it to refresh your memory later when you paint or draw.

While these strictures might seem onerous to some, the pueblo is sovereign ground and those are the rules. This should not stop you at all from visiting the site and spending a pleasant day among the many welcoming people there. Not visiting the pueblo when in Taos would be a serious omission.

Check for opening and closing times at the Taos Pueblo web site. Call ahead as well, as the pueblo may close to the public at various times.

Photo Copyright Grace Schaub 2010. Horno and Buildings, Taos Pueblo, Hand colored silver print

Introduction to the Guide

The Taos Photography Guide is intended for all those who make their art on site (and often on sight), mainly photographers but also plein air painters, sketchers and watercolorists who love to work outdoors. The locales suggested here, and the opinions about them, are the favorites of the authors and their friends and artist associates in and around the Taos area.

This guide does not recommend specific images or sights. There are no "picture spots" or GPS coordinates accompanied by instructions to face NNE at 3PM in October for a great shot or scene. The guide is all about pointing out places that have touched the eyes and hearts of the artists who work in the area and to bring you down roads, up trails and through towns that might touch you in similar ways.

Photo: George Schaub, Rio Pueblo near the joining of the Rio Grande, 2009