Ghost Ranch

While a bit out of the Taos circle, Ghost Ranch is close enough for a day trip and well worth your while. You can even arrange to stay overnight or longer in the somewhat Spartan quarters on the grounds, although summers tend to be booked up with workshops and retreats. We find that if you call on a Tuesday afternoon there may be some cancellations for the following weekend, but it’s usually catch as catch can in the high season. (www.ghostranch.org for information, lodging, etc. or call 877-804-4678.)

This 21,000 acre tract is most familiar to those who know and love the paintings of Georgia O’Keeffe. Walk around and you’ll recognize them in the landscape, with Pedernal always over your shoulder to the southwest.

Getting to Ghost Ranch has been made much easier with the paving of the West Rim Rd. north of town, which dropped almost 15-30 minutes from the trip. You follow the road straight out of town and then head west to the Gorge Bridge, then about a quarter mile after the rest area make a left and head south, then head west through Carson, then south towards Ojo Caliente, then west through El Rito and down to Abiquiu, then north to the ranch area, passing through the amazing heights where you can look down into the Chama River meandering through a dazzling valley. You know you’re close when the riot of red rock appears. When passing through Abiquiu have a breakfast burrito at Bodes.

You enter the ranch by making a right at the gate where the cattle skull appears, then follow the signs to the ranch house/visitor center. If you need to make a phone call the only place a signal seems to get out is alongside the cabin on the right on the way in.

You sign in at the front desk and tell them you are hiking and that should be that. If you carry in serious gear you might be asked for a camera use fee, or something like that, and if you are painting and setting up an easel you might have to pay a use fee as well. It’s not much and if it helps them run the place it’s fine. Get a trail map.

(Trail maps online: www.ghostranch.org/mueseums--activities/hiking-trails-at-ghost-tanch-abuqui.html).

Every trail in Ghost Ranch is magnificent. The first section of the Box Canyon Trail, for example, has sheer cliffs and a pond that throws amazing reflections. Kitchen Mesa can be a bit of a haul in spots but has amazing views. Chimneyy Rock Trail, said to be the most hiked, is about 3 miles long and the classic for long-range views. The Piedra Lumbre trail is flat all the way, but brings you past O’Keeffe scenes unmatched in other parts of the area.

Caveats: From late May (or earlier) through September it can get quite hot and buggy. If you keep moving you probably will be fine but stand and contemplate for too long or sit down to draw and you will serve a feast to the local gnats etc. Bring bug spray.

The site may close for special workshops or retreats. Check before heading over just to be sure.

Do not walk off the trail, as this area is very fragile, but don’t fret, as there are many, many images to be made without straying off the path, which is diverse, long and varied.

Photo: Red rock formation alongside road from Abiquiu to entrance of Ghost Ranch. When you see this formation you are about 5 minutes from the entrance on the right. Copyright George Schaub 2010 All Rights Reserved